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Elevation:
6,152 ft
1,875 m
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GPS:
61.99389, -127.5235
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Shared By:
Jay Knower
on Jan 7, 2007
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Braden Batsford
You must pre-register before entering Nahanni National Park Reserve to climb in the Cirque of the Unclimbables. When you leave the park, de-registration is also required.
Reservations are required for the Cirque of the Unclimbables and the Vampire Peaks areas. For more information on registration and the required form: parks.canada.ca/pn-np/nt/na…
Please visit parks.canada.ca/pn-np/nt/na… for more information on climbing.
If you have any questions, please contact Nahanni National Park Reserve at the addresses and numbers below.
Email: nahanni.info@pc.gc.ca
Phone: 1-867-695-3151
Nahanni National Park Reserve
PO Box 348
Ft Simpson, NT
X0E 0N0
Canada
Description
The Cirque of the Unclimbables offers amazing granite rock climbing in a remote, beautiful setting. Found in Nahanni National Park Reserve of Canada just over the western border of the Northwest Territories, the Cirque is pretty out there. No roads lead to within a hundred miles of the Cirque.
Often likened to the Bugaboos but without all of the snow and harder to get to, the Cirque holds many spires and walls. Most are suitable for climbing, but Lotus Flower Tower and Mount Proboscis stand out as gems. Mid-to-late summer offers the best climbing weather and also offers up to 20 hours of daylight because of the Cirque's northern geography.
Fairy Meadows, the traditional basecamp for all routes in the Cirque except the more remote Mount Proboscis, is a magical, lush, well, meadow. Granite boulders, some house-sized, dot the meadow and present rainy-day bouldering opportunities and shelter for tents. Most objectives in the area are a one-hour walk from the meadow. However, those who plan on climbing Mount Proboscis should plan on a much more involved approach from the meadow, one that takes a number of hours and involves a climb through What Notch, as Proboscis actually lies in a subsidiary cirque.
George Bell's excellent and informative site answers most questions about the area: gibell.net/cirque/
Getting There
This is the hard and expensive part. Unless you are masochistic, it is necessary to charter a float plane to fly you into the Cirque. Warren Lafave's company, Kluane Airways is the primary service for the Cirque. He owns the Inconnu Lodge, a very high-end fishing resort, so those who chose to fly with Kluane often are treated to food and lodging at this up-scale establishment. Warren usually stashes a sat phone in the Cirque in order to coordinate trips back to civilization. More info can be found at: kluaneairways.com/unclimbab…
We drove to Finlayson Lake, which is about two hours north of Watson Lake in the Yukon Territories. From here, a float plane picked us up and flew us to Glacier Lake, the major drop-off point for the Cirque. From Glacier Lake, expect a long slog up interminable talus to Fairy Meadows. So, from the lake, follow a meandering trail generally west until you hit the talus at the base of Mount Harrison Smith, a mile-high hunk of bad granite. Take a hard right and follow the talus generally north until you hit Fairy Meadows. It took us a solid half-day to get from the lake to the meadow.
Edit 2024: A new trail was been cut from Glacier Lake to Fairy Meadows on climbers right of the creek. Climbing the talus slope under Mt. Harrison Smith is no longer the primary way to the cirque. The new trail is steep but generally easy hiking in the trees, except for some schwacky bushes once you depart the trees near the top.
It is also possible, though more expensive, to charter a helicopter to drop you off at Fairy Meadows, thereby bypassing the talus slog. If I ever go back, I am definitely getting the helicopter. After negotiating the talus a few times while shuttling loads, I came to the conclusion that the helicopter is absolutely worth the extra cost.
11 Total Climbs
Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!
Classic Climbing Routes at The Cirque of the Unclimbables
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
● West Ridge
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
E Huey Spire
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C0
● Southeast Face
Trad, Aid, Alpine 18 pitches
Lotus Flower Tower
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
● Riders on the Storm
Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
E Huey Spire
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● West Ridge E Huey Spire
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
● Southeast Face Lotus Flower Tower
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C0 Trad, Aid, Alpine 18 pitches
● Riders on the Storm E Huey Spire
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Cirque of the Unclimbables »
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Photos
A wilderness bigwall at it's finest - the South…
Cragging in Fairy Meadows on "The Penguin" (5.1…
David Barnett feels some earned exposure with t…
Sun through the clouds in the Cirque of the Unc…
The Cirque. Mt Proboscis is on the left, Lotus…
Bouldering in Fairy Meadow. Lotus Flower Tower…
Lotus Flower from Ferry Meadows
the Lotus and the Parrot Beak
Mt Proboscis (on the left) from Fairy Meadow.
Peter and Deaun smokin' cigars after a another…
Lotus Flower Tower and Parrot Beak Peak
Terrance Tower with Mt Proboscis in the distance
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